Filippo Tosetto


Bali Diaries - 2 - Souther Beaches - 2

Souther Beaches - 2

Bali southern peninsula hides loads of gems, you just need to be willing to find them. In fact what I noticed is that the harder they are to reach the more beautiful they are. I guess once they are exploited by tourists they lose their natural and wild beauty and become just another beach. 
I personally parked the idea of surfing for a bit, I didn't really feel it that much, maybe the waves too high, maybe the water not that clean. That gave me a bit more freedom to explore less beaten paths. Also after few weeks in Bali we started to get a bit more confident about our life there. From driving the moped to dealing with Balinese people, the easiness with which the locals live started to affect me in a good way, I started to relax and feel part of the island.
But back to the exploration, in the second part of the first month I wanted to see more of what was around me and I started to adventure on the extreme south and the east part of the peninsula. 

Green bow beach

Green bowl beach is one of the first beaches we explored out of the beaten path. The road there is quite new, perfect tarmac, you can see there’s a plan to bring more tourists in that direction. At the entrance you need to pay the usual ‘tourist’ fee, around £ 0.5 , quite inexpensive. You park your scooter or car on top of the cliff and you walk down this stone stairs for around 10 minutes, it’s extremely humid and most likely mosquitos will enjoy your blood, but it will be worth it. When you are almost at see level, you start to see this untouched beach and an infinite shade of blue. There were not many people or at least way fewer than the more know beaches. You can see few surfers on the reef, and a bunch of locals fishing. Word of advice, you should bring with you some water or drinks in general, as there aren’t any facilities or bar. In fact the only place serving coconuts or beers is back at the top of the staircase. 
There are still few locals trying to sell you some bracelets or offering to do massages but they are quite nice and most of the times you end up talking to them about life and not buying anything. I also quite enjoyed watching them fishing, it’s in those cases where you see foreigners coexisting with the locals, everyone minding their own business and respecting each other. 


Ok, if you ask me what was my favourite beach in Bali, I would answer without hesitation Nunggalan. You’ll need to work very hard to get to it. Firstly the little road to leads to it it’s quite hidden, it’s on the way to Uluwatu temple, it’s all rocky and if you don’t know where it is it’s pretty much impossible to spot. Once you found your way there, you need to park your scooter and be ready to walk for a good 20 minutes in the middle of a tropical forest, that by itself it’s worth doing. On your path you’ll find a few viewpoints from which you’ll be able to admire the long strip of sandyou’ll soon be reaching. But that’s not the most stunning part, in fact when you finally reach the brach, you’ll realise that not many people know about it or simply won’t dare the hike. In fact when I went there we were no more than a handful of tourists disperse here and there enjoying the crystalline water.
There’s obviously no bar or anything, just a couple of balinese ladies selling fresh tropical fruits. 
We decided to have a stroll till the end of the brach, we found a shipwreck and unfortunately loads of trash... Yeah Bali beaches are quite polluted unfortunately. 
That’s it, there’s nothing else, but for me that is one of the most peaceful places in Bali.

Nusa Penida

One of the last places we visited in the Bukit peninsula was Nusa Penida. We woke up at 5am, grab the scooter and drove east in the dark. We got lost a couple of times but finally we reached this cluster of perfectly made hotels for rich tourists.
As much as I disliked Nusa Penida as it’s an artificial area built for rich Europeans and Asians, the sunrise from the Waterfront is quite a thing.
You can see the silhouette of Mount Batur slowly getting illuminated by the rising sun, few early local fishermen sitting on the rocks, and the force of the waves crashing against them. The magnificent experience last for around 20 minutes, then you need to face the artificial paradise on your way back.
This experience made me think a bit. All this tourists coming here and not leaving their perfectly kept slice of Bali. Am I different from them? Yes I like blending with the locals, go to the market, communicate at the same level. But I’m still living in a villa with a swimming pool and a cleaner coming every day. I felt quite disturbed.

That was our adventure in the Bukit peninsula, even tho we felt a bit trapped as we had to cross the dreaded Kuta traffic to go and explore the rest of the island. I’m kind of glad we spent time there, I personally got used to the local customs, get confidence, started to relax and found what I was looking for. 
I was ready to face the rest of Bali, but before that I’ve been lucky enough to experience Nyepi Day, one of the most surreal experiences of my life.